Restaurant, Bar and Cafe – El Viajero in Madrid

Restaurant/café/bar: El Viajero
Address: Plaza de la Cebada, 11
Hours: Tues-Sat 12:30 – 2:30; Kitchen open 14:00 -17:00 and 21:00-1:00; closed Sunday night and Mon.
Metro: La Latina

Leo Relaxing at El Viajero

by Tyler Wilson

On a typical Sunday afternoon at La
Latina’s El Viajero (The Traveler), crowds are packing in, speakers are crooning
modern tango, and the good-natured owner, Jose Angel Serrano, is explaining his
restaurant to yet another journalist. Avoiding that cursed number “13” he tells me
his charming three-storey restaurant/bar has existed for “12 plus 1”
years.

In a city that has been churning
since the 10^th century this doesn’t even make a blip on the
historical radar; however, in spite of its relative newness, this irresistible
site has established itself as a landmark.

Don’t be discouraged by the clients thronging the entrance. Try this trick: finagle your way to the back
of the restaurant and head up the absurdly steep staircase – awaiting you are
two floors as different as they are lovely.

The middle floor, the turquoise
lounge, sets a sophisticated yet casual tone.
Modern art adorns the walls and a collection of low-slung couches and
chairs are intimately clustered throughout.
The music ranges from chill out to jazz and the view allows you to
appreciate city without the continuous din of its streets.

The top floor is an entirely
different scene. One of the most famous
roof-top terrazas in Madrid,
it never disappoints. Here, the view of
La Latina and San Francisco Chapel are quintessentially Madridleño as are the cañas
(little beers) and classic Spanish raciones (slightly bigger than tapas).

And what about that first
floor? Actually, once you make it past
the initial blockade of people, the first floor has a charm all its own. The menu is Spanish with a decidedly
Argentine influence including dishes like pumpkin ravioli and spinach
gnocchi. The lunch special averages 12
euros, the dinner 37 euros.

Thirty-seven euros may not be in
the budget of every Viajero, but everyone can swing but some quiet afternoon
for a coffee and the view.