Waiters at Corazon Loco

Wallowing in its wonderful excesses, Corazon Loco (The Crazy Heart) definitely lives up to its name. Here the levels of chatter, the number of people and the amount of cheap eats are off the map.

The young alterna-crowd packs in to this sturdily built old-Madrid style tavern by the masses on Sundays. Occasionally slicing through the cacophony of conversation are shouts of the waiters as they belt out the names of customers whose food is up, “MARIA!!!” -it is a homey touch.

And speaking of food, don’t miss it. After you’ve muscled your way to the bar, don’t stop at just drinks. They have a selection of canapés which are drop-dead delicious. Particularly good are the cabra con nuez (goats cheese with nuts) and the champiñon con alioli (mushrooms with garlic sauce). Managing to eat what you’ve ordered in a space slightly less crowded than a mosh pit is a bit of a talent, but you'll figure it out. All of this is a world away from the more upscale Viajero (almost next door), but a truly Spanish experience, indeed.

If you are charmed by the deeply Madrileño atmosphere, but not charmed by concept of full-contact eating, try the dining room. Here the prices are a tad higher and the portions bigger – not to mention the fact that you'll be afforded a little thing called “personal space”.

However you decide to do it, it is a perfect end to a day of milling around the Rastro, the weekly flea market that envelops the entire La Latina neighborhood on Sundays and holidays.