Jazz and Caipirinhas in Huertas

The question is obvious: standing in the usually crowded calle de las Huertas, where bars and clubs almost pile up on top of each other, why go into La Trocha as opposed to the others? It’s not the only place that offers up jazz and caipirinhas—the mob of bar promoters and drink offer hander outers that spot you, like army recruiters spot high school dropouts, will make that abundantly clear. It’s a safe bet that going to La Trocha once will answer that question: one visit is all you need to sense the quality, dependability and good vibes that come out of this popular bar. Open daily from 16:30 p.m. to around 1:30 a.m. (it closes around 3:00 a.m. on weekends) the place is a great blend of jazz and tropical flavor. Somewhat like a long passageway, the wooden bar stretches along most of the local and faces a line of chairs and small wooden tables, while there is a small area in the back with a wider room. The walls are covered with framed posters of jazz legends as well as pictures from places like India and Tibet, and the colors that fill the walls are mellow and old fashioned.

These spots are ideal and comfortable for drinking and chatting while listening to music that is not too loud for conversing or too faint to enjoy. Remember though, if you want seats during weekends try to come before 12 o’clock, otherwise you will have to stand like the rest of the crowd that barges in as the night progresses. What you find at those hours is a lively but not savage crowd of mostly older people—it is more common to see a group of 30 or 40 something’s than a group of teenagers. This does not necessarily describe the bar’s youthful staff, who are undoubtedly one of the reasons this is an enjoyable place. It seems that they follow the philosophy that the best way to keep customers is to treat them nicely and with familiarity. They don’t mind offering you a shot or, ah screw it, taking that last drink out of the tab, if that means you’ll want to come back. And that is the kind of place La Trocha is: one to come back to instead of being “that crazy spot” that you try out once.

Going back to the question of why go to this specific bar and not the others in the same area, the short answer simply is: the caipirinhas. Yes, the bar has rums, vodkas and whiskeys, just like any other in Huertas. But their incredible caipirinhas are really the main product and cornerstone of the place. I won’t say they are the best in Madrid: I haven’t been to all its bars and besides, just as with tapas, beer and sangria a lot of folks know places they will swear serves the best caipirinhas in the city. But I will mention they do serve the best ones I’ve had in Madrid or any other place. The sugar cane rum, lime and lemon drink is mixed thoroughly in balanced amounts, thrown into ice and then crushed to create a mouthwatering cocktail. Traditional caipirinhas made from cachaca or “flor de Caña” (both sugar cane variations) and ones made with rum and vodka are either 6 or 7 euros each, the same price range goes for other liquors. Wine prices range between 4 and 18 euros. If you’re looking for tapas or food though, there are none offered here.

La Trocha
Calle de las Huertas 55
91 429 78 61
Metro: Anton Martin
Open daily from 16:30 p.m. to approximately 2:00 a.m.

By Daniel Sznajderman