In Search of the Ultimate “Hole-in-the-Wall”

Uncategorized — By admin on March 7, 2008 1:00 am

Restaurant: Factoria Tropical
Address: Jacometrezo, 11, 5th floor
T. 91 541 17 70
Price: 10-12 euros

By Andrew Poole

In spite of several frustrated buzzes, no one
answered the doorbell. Why? Although it looked like an ordinary housing block, I was sure I had the address right – was there a
secret knock? a password? a hidden video camera? Discouraged but not
deterred, I persevered; in the world of “hole-in-the-walls”, I like a good
challenge.

Feeling like some sort of culinary sleuth, I
paced up and down Calle Jacometrezo searching for clues. In lieu of an
official sign and a street-level venue, I sought indirect evidence: a whiff of
unfamiliar food, a glimpse of Brazilian patrons, or the distinctive lilt of the
Portuguese accent.

Still nothing.

Out of desperation I returned to the door
and shouldered it – click – I entered the building’s dark interior, but still
no evidence of a restaurant. One of the residents approached on her way
out – I determinedly walked toward the lift primarily to avoid looking
lost. The rickety elevator descended and in opening unleashed the thick
aroma of home-cooked food – bingo!

At last the fifth floor revealed the
mystery: a small, homey restaurant little different than the residences that
surrounded it – very little different.

I cautiously entered and was immediately
shoulder to shoulder with the waitress, patrons and a passing chef, and, yet, I
was… in someone’s living room. It doesn’t get much homier than that, does
it?

Eight tables crammed into this modest space
made for the “dining room”. Portuguese filled the room and everyone looked like
a regular. The “menu” was the waitress’s description.

“You speak Portuguese?” she queried.

I, as a tall, blond, blue-eyed and
fair-skinned guy, thought, “Good god, this woman is really trying to avoid
speaking Spanish!” More points for authenticity, no? After hearing
her descriptions in Span-o-guese of a chicken, a fish and a beef dish, I asked
her to bring whatever was most representative of her country. Beef was
the answer.

Although we’ve all had beef before, most of
us probably haven’t had it wrapped around a large carrot and then cooked – just
one of the many pleasant surprises. The distinctive spices set this dish apart
and the carrot core kept the meat succulent. In addition, I asked for the most characteristic Brazilian
beverage and got a cherry-flavored “Antarctica”
drink. How Brazil
and Antarctica are related is uncertain; how Antarctica
and cherries are linked is another mystery.
It was fizzy and sweet; I liked it.

Factoria Tropical, by the way, is not the
domain of those with small appetites; the main course came with many other
dishes: rice, black beans, potatoes, spaghetti, and yucca flour.
Overwhelmed, I invited a charming Brazilian woman to dine with me. She
had no table and I wanted explanations of my food – like, what do you do with
yucca flour?

My lunch companion, who perhaps thought I
was a bit mad in the beginning, exclaimed: “We Brazilians are very friendly,
but even we don’t ask strangers to dine with us!” In such a family-oriented
environment, it seemed strange not to offer a seat. After deciding that I
was merely friendly and not deranged, she relaxed and we were exchanging
numbers by the devastating dessert.

Now back to the yucca flour. It turns out this coarse powder is mixed with
small cubes of dried pork and sprinkled over the rice and beans. I think
hippies use brewer’s yeast in a similar way, but omit the pork – a crucial
ingredient.

The potatoes were delicious and have a
quantity of garlic that officially designates them as “kissing repellent”.
Indulge – but invest in some Smints before heading home. Also on the
dangerous side was the dessert: a chocolate cake so sinful that my newfound friend agreed it would take 10 “Hail
Marys” and three spinning classes to redeem herself. This, of
course, didn’t hold her back.

The entire belly-stretching meal was
delicious and inexpensive. The menu changes daily, but a great day to
swing by would be Sunday when they serve fejoiada, a traditional dish of
assorted meats served with rice, beans, collard greens, oranges and hot pepper
sauce. Arrive early and you might get a table on the beautiful terraza.

By the way, shouldering your way in probably
isn’t necessary. After seeing the
restaurant in action, I realized that sometimes they’re just too overwhelmed to
buzz people in.