The Best Cuban Food in Madrid
Standing inconspicuously somewhere along the narrow Calle de Infantas, Zara is not the kind of place you’d expect to have a good reputation and widespread popularity. Yet this small restaurant has been known to locals as the place to go to eat Cuban food for nearly thirty years. Its cozy, simple ambience and nonchalant staff makes costumers feel at home and the food, as today’s lingo so rightly expresses, is the bomb. Lodged between bigger buildings, the sliding door leads to a small space that looks a bit like a cabin with rough walls and a bent wooden ceiling. The decoration is intentionally plain, with just a couple of maps of Cuba and a small olden time sign of La Habana. The place, however, is not dirty or crookedly built: on the contrary, the floor and tables, covered in traditional red and white checkered tablecloths, are impeccably clean. This must be so because of the tight shift run by the restaurant’s owners, an elderly couple, he a Spaniard and she a Cuban, who first opened the place in 1978 as a café and then expanded it into what it is today.
The restaurant offers virtually all the traditional Cuban dishes—as well as some Spanish and infused ones—that will make those that are used to the food happy to eat it again and those that are new to it happy to have discovered it. The menu’s backbone is rice, black beans, meat and chicken, ingredients that although common, are seasoned here to produce a distinct flavor. Common not only in Cuba but in large parts of South America is the “ropa vieja” dish. “Old clothing” refers to seasoned and juicy meat cut into little strips, which comes accompanied by rice and beans—here in Zara, they offer their own black rice as an alternative to the customary white that is delicious. Just as commonly well known are the chicken and rice dishes and the “arroz a la cubana”, rice with fried eggs and tomato sauce.
What makes this restaurant authentic and worthwhile is that it also makes food using ingredients that, opposed to rice and chicken, aren’t very common on this side of the Atlantic. Yuca (cassava in English), a root vegetable and common side dish in Latin America that can be served fried or boiled, is tasty and should not be passed up. Another celebrated sidekick are tostones: fried plantains that are as eagerly eaten by little children as toothless old timers wherever they form part of the daily diet. Heading towards sweeter things, the place offers a variety of fresh juices, and by that I mean thick, colorful, tasty juices. Such fruits are also used in desserts, notably the guayaba paste, fresh pineapple and coconut in sugar based syrup.
Drinking enthusiasts and dependants need not worry: although not a bar, Zara offers plenty of alcohol, from standard beer and wine to more tropically inspired drinks like pina coladas, daiquiris, and of course Cuban rum. Also available is ice cold sangria (we are in Madrid after all) and a variety of cream liqueurs like Cointreau and Baileys. As far as prices go, Zara is neither cheap nor expensive—a big meal for 3 would for instance cost around 60 euros. The general price breakdown would be: soups and entrees cost between 3 and 5 euros, meats and seafood between 8 and 15, and desserts and drinks are around 6 or 7 euros.
Zara
Calle Infantas 5
91 532 20 74
Metro: Gran Via
Open Monday through Friday from 13:00 p.m. to 17:00 p.m. and 20:00 p.m. to 23:30 p.m.
By Daniel Sznajderman
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