Alfredo’s Barbacoa: Salamanca’s Stupendous Bargain BBQ Scene

29 years ago, in 1981, a New Yorker with a passion for good hearty food opened the doors to what would become one of the most popular eateries in Madrid. Alfredo’s Barbacoa now has 2 restaurants, both in the Salamanca neighbourhood and they continue to pack in the crowds at dinner times. If you’re there at the peak periods it can resemble sharks at feeding time with a frenzy of hungry diners packing out the place. And to be honest, even Jaws would be satisfied with what comes out of the kitchen and the BBQ smell in the air will get more than just Pavlov’s dog salivating. Both venues are unglamorous in appearance and relatively small, but when you’re getting good food at good prices then there is no need for fancy decoration. The walls host a stream of American paraphernalia that could have you believing that you’re dining on Route 66, and the red and white checked tablecloths finish off the traditional diner feel to a tee.

The food itself is exactly what you’d expect from a good BBQ joint; burgers, ribs, steaks, hot dogs, corn on the cob, etc. The Super Alfredo’s Burger con queso y bacon (bacon cheeseburger with bbq sauce, fries and coleslaw) is one of the top sellers and is a tasty choice, though the ribs are also finger-licking lovely. Alfredo himself admits that the menu has changed very little since the beginning and that the burgers, coleslaw and famous house BBQ sauce were all featured on the original menu. There has been no need to play with a recipe that works and only a few new dishes and desserts have been added over the years to compliment the quality meat that Alfredo serves.

Alfredo’s is somewhere that I would recommend to call ahead and reserve a table in order to avoid the disappointment of being turned away empty-bellied and sad-faced – this place gets super busy at popular times.

Hours: Lunch: 13:00 p.m.-16:30 p.m. Mon-Sat. Dinner: 20:30 p.m. -0:00 a.m. Mon-Thurs, 20:30 p.m. -01:00 a.m. Fri & Sat
Plate: 6-10 euros

Alfredo’s Barbacoa
C/Lagasca, 5
Metro: Retiro
Tel: 91 576 62 71

C/Juan Hurtado de Mendoza, 11
Metro: Cuzco
Tel: 91 345 16 39

By  Tom Burgess

Mamá Francisca: More Than Just Mojitos

Go to Mamá Francisca enough times and you begin to be treated like family.  As I walk in, Tarek, the bartender and staff manager, yells my name, blows a kiss and gets started on our Mojitos. They say that when you’re new to Madrid, you should try your best to become a “conocido” (or “regular”) somewhere—anywhere—and what better place than this delightful little Cuban corner.

Cuban owner Luisa María named the bar after her mother, Nena Francisca, who now reads fortunes at a competing larger Cuban bar, La Negra Tomasa.  What Mamá Francisca lacks in size and fancy exterior, it more than makes up for in its lively atmosphere, delicious food and drinks, unbeatable prices and charming staff.  Every now and then Regla, the restaurant Chef, will pop out of the kitchen with a dazzling smile and an impressive set of salsa moves.  “I like to dance to add some atmosphere,” she says, “sometimes people here can be a bit dry, so I try and bring what I know from my culture.”

I ask Regla about the food and as she starts explaining it becomes quite clear that the menu boasts more or less every Cuban dish on the face of the earth. Regla jokes that I had better not steal her recipes as she disappears into the kitchen and quickly brings back a steaming plate of “arroz con gris”, a deliciously spiced-up mix of white and brown rice with beans.  They are also known for their “Ropa Vieja”, or old clothes.  Which, despite its name, is supposed to be a sumptuous saucy dish.  The name comes from the way the meat is pulled and shredded before it is mixed with its typical sauce.  “We make everything!” she laughs, “can you imagine? Everything! Ribs, tamales—do you know what tamales are?”

Over at the bar, Tarek practically flies back and forth, making drinks, running tabs and switching music.  Saturday nights are always busy but he always makes time to stop, smile and say hello when anyone comes in.  The drinks here are delicious.  Try their signature Mojitos or choose from their vast tropical cocktail list.  This list boasts the classic “daiquiris” and “piña coladas” but also has more adventurous choices such as the “passion colada”, the “green demon” and “Mamá Francisca’s Special”.

The tropical decor mixed with Cuban pop and salsa hits makes for a festive atmosphere. Tarek keeps the music flowing, occasionally showing series of Cuban music videos or a big football game on the television.  The Salsa music makes it hard not to dance, or at least wiggle on your barstool.  There isn’t a large dance floor, per se, but people always make room, especially when Regla busts out her moves.

The clientele is diverse and often changing, due to its location right in the heart of Madrid’s nightlife.  Tourists often wander in, lured by the prospect of a free fruity shot.  You will also see your fair share of regulars and of people stopping by for their Friday night Mojito.  That’s probably where you’ll find me, at least.

Located just a couple of blocks from Puerta del Sol, Mamá Francisca is a perfect place for a meal or a couple of drinks with friends, or for a fun and tropical barhop stop around Sol. Even better, with “copas” at just 5 euro and cocktails between 5 and 7, you really can’t get any cheaper than Mamá Francisca. So next time you’re about to pay 12 euro for a mass-produced cocktail that tastes like fruity lip-gloss, stop yourself and head over to Mamá Francisca’s for a little taste of Cuba.  You won’t regret it, I’m sure.

Mamá Francisca
Calle Alvarez Gato, 9
Metro: Sol
Phone: 91 532 33 24
Hours: From 13:00 p.m. to 2 :30 a.m. Tuesday to Sunday.  Closed Monday.
Prices:  Restaurant: Menu for 9 euro, Bar: 5-7 euro

By Chloé Rousseau

La Mantequería: Tea, Tostas and a Touch of the Big Apple

Nestled in the backstreets near Plaza de España, you could be forgiven for not having heard of La Mantequería before. But for those that have already discovered this little treat, they certainly make it one of their regulars. It’s a very simple affair, but there’s something so warm and inviting about this corner plot that it gives me a little smile each time I’m there. Although fairly small, La Mantequeria is rarely overcrowded, which makes it a perfect place if you’re looking for somewhere quiet to go with guaranteed available tables.

The first time I went I was with a friend in search for a place to chat the afternoon away. Having heard of this place from another friend we made our way to the corner of C/San Bernadino and C/San Leonardo, and I was certainly glad we did. With a large range of drinks, both alcoholic and not, including an array of posh teas, the Englishman in me was ecstatic. Though rather than opting for a classic cuppa, I went for the White Pear tea which hit the spot better than Robin Hood and his trusty bow.

It was only once sitting back, sipping my tea and taking in the café/restaurant that I really noticed my surroundings. Originally an old creamery and now converted into the café it is today, the décor features a combination of exposed brick, white walls and wrought iron furniture. Looking around, I suddenly felt like I’d been transported across the Atlantic and could easily have been in an East Village café in New York. There is no pretense in the appearance or ambience and although I didn’t bump into any A-list clientele such as those that grace the sofas of Central Perk, I did get to relax and hang with my friends.

There is also a downstairs restaurant area where you can enjoy some of the delights off the menu. Although it’s not a menu that boasts the biggest selection in town, the food they serve is pretty good. Some of the highlights on the list being the salmorejo, the tostas (the goats cheese and blackcurrant jam tosta is my particular fave) and the quiche. If you’re thinking of dinner options then perhaps head elsewhere and save La Mantequería for a ‘snack’ rather than a full meal. It’s a perfect place for small bites and  a cuppa, copa, cocktail or cana.

La Mantequería
C/San Bernardino, 7
Metro: Plaza de España / Noviciado / Ventura Rodríguez
Beverage: Teas 2-3 euros / Copas 6 euros
Plates: 7 – 12 euros
Opening: Monday to Thursday 12:00 p.m.- 2:00 a.m., Fridays & Saturdays 12:00 p.m. – 3:00 a.m., Sundays 11:00 a.m. -1:00 a.m.
Tel: 91 541 75 43

By Tom Burgess

Restaurante El Botin: Essential Eating and Sightseeing in Madrid

El Botin, a renowned Restaurant in Madrid

For its owners and many of its customers El Botin is more than a restaurant: it’s an institution that comprises history, fame, longevity and tradition. Part of this solemnity is explained by the fact that after holding its place on calle de los Cuchilleros since 1725, El Botin Restaurant is by the standard of the Guinness Book of World Records the oldest restaurant in the world. Those two hundred and eighty two years have seen much change and volatility, but never dullness. In fact, the last four decades up to the present have been the best years El Botin has ever had, what with its outstanding culinary reputation, tourist site status and close link to the city’s elite—it’s even got a recommendation from Ernest Hemingway. But most of all it’s the succulent piglet roast, the house’s specialty, that keeps them coming for more.

The current owners’ grandparents bought the place over ninety years ago and the descendants are as proud as they are concerned to keep the family business and tradition in good stance. Like their menu and many of their loyal customers, El Botin relies on consistent quality rather than variety, which might explain why they still use the same oven they did in 1725 to roast meat: precisely because of its age and traditional cooking method their meat has a savory  taste. The classic piglet, a Segovian specialty, roasts in this oven for two and half hours. Before getting to Botin however, the piglets have to acquire quite specific traits: they cannot be over four kilos in weight or twenty days in age and must have only been fed, before meeting their unfortunate end, mother’s milk (this is just to show you the seriousness that is involved in the preparation)

The whole place in general has suffered little renovations since it first opened as an inn to house and feed travelers: of its three levels the cellar remains the most untouched, while the middle floor was remodeled in the mid nineteenth century. The mostly wooden interior, old photos of the place and hanging porcelain decorations make for a great atmosphere that blends in well with the delicious smells that spring from the kitchen. The restaurant itself, as the owners often like to mention, has been described by other pens much mightier than yours truly: the widely celebrated Spanish author Ramon Gomez de la Serna declared that “it seems as if Botin has existed forever, and that Adam and Eve tried the first fried lamb ever prepared in the world”. Was Serna implying that Botin was within the premises of the Garden of Eden? Blasphemy! Graham Green wasn’t very quiet about his visit to Botin and his admiration for the tasty food, while Ernest Hemingway actually became close friends with the grandfather of the current owners, Emilio Gonzalez. The restaurant is mentioned in Hemingway’s classic The Sun Also Rises: “It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta…”

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Relax; the menu has many other things apart from suckling pig. Ranking high among the classics are the restaurant’s old gazpacho recipe and its selection of Iberian hams. The roast lamb is another popular dish that is as mouthwatering as it is hard to finish, while Galician hake and clams a la Botin are the most recommended seafood dishes. The menu is in fact quite varied with many typical Spanish dishes to choose from ,which means a whole lot of potatoes, ham, green beans, eggs and chicken. There’s yet another reason to come if it happens to be after eleven o’clock: El Botin’s well known Tunos will show up in traditional clothing (and the occasional medieval guitar) to perform a musical tradition that’s over seven hundred years old. “Las Tunas” refers to groups of young men—in contemporary times university students—that would serve as troubadours and performers in medieval cities. This tradition survived in well in Spain and has been a cherished part of El Botin since its spontaneous beginnings back in 1959. Throughout the years the place’s tunos have gone to represent Spain in international world fairs and serenaded the  stream of celebrities—from king Juan Carlos I to Quentin Tarantino—that pass by the restaurant, wouldn’t it be nice to hear them too?

This is all-in-all a treat of a place worth visiting for its fine food but also the great deal of history surrounding the establishment, it’s anecdotes and heritage. May 2nd, 2009 El Botin received the silver medal from the Comunidad de Madrid for being one of Madrid’s most enduring and tasty landmarks—come visit when you can!

General price range
Starters: 7.50 – 18.75 euros
Soups: 6.50 – 16.50 euros
Egg dishes:  10 euros
Vegetable dishes: 10.25 – 13.00 euros
Fish: 17.00 – 27.00 euros (the next most expensice dish is a ration of Angulas, which costs 97.00 euros)
Meats: 11.00 – 23.00 euros

El Botin
Calle de los Cuchilleros, 17
Metro: Tirso de Molina / Sol
91 366 42 17 / 91 366 30 26
botin@restaurantebotin.com
Hours: open every day from 13:00 p.m. to 16:00 p.m. and 20:00 p.m.  to 24:00 a.m.

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By Daniel Sznajderman

Lunch at the Madrid’s Military Palace? Why Certainly!

If you´ve ever been to Gran Vía then you´ve passed by the casino militar at least once—if you hang around there a lot then you´ve passed  it a thousand  times.  In plain sight for all to see, but rarely paid attention to by tourists, the casino militar—the actual name is El Centro Cultural de Ejercitos—is enclosed inside one of Gran Via´s spectacular turn of the century buildings, the kind  that you imagine must hold some sort of government office or be the king´s storage depot. In fact, this particular building is an exclusive army social club complete with a gym, tai-chi, massage parlor, esgrima, barbershop, events room and more. Never mind all that though, because only members can use those facilities and you must be in the army to be one. What is open to you and your wallet is lunch at the center´s dining room at a price that might surprise you.

The food at the casino militar is as Spanish as it gets, the same you´d find in any cerveceria or typical restaurant except here, quite unexpectedly, prices are lower. Go to your run of the mill places around Gran Via and calle Alcala and the daily fixed priced menu—the traditional choice for a business lunch—will be between eleven and fifteen euros.  At the casino militar it costs no more than nine euros while the permanent menu is fourteen fifty.

Upon entering the solemn 1916 building you have to go to the second floor to get to the dining room. If you can walk rather than take the lift you will run into a good number of classic military portraits and statues from the 19^th century as well as swords and even knight´s armor from who knows when.

The dining room itself is ample and simple: a big room surrounded by white walls barely covered by the occasional nature portrait and a tall roof from which three chandeliers hang silently. Despite this lack of luxury, looking down to busy Gran Via from the tall classy windows you might wonder how it is that a nine euro meal got you such a good view. Speaking of the meal, the daily menu looks something like this: for starters fish soup; artichokes with ham; noodles with ham and an apple and chicken salad; for main course meatballs with rice, stuffed red peppers, grilled grouper fish and huevos a la flamenco (a sort of egg, ham and tomato stew).  The permanent menu is not very different, among the highlights there´s the melon soup with Iberian ham, a mushroom and shrimp pastry and lamb chops with salad. If you´re wondering about desserts just think of the most Spanish sweets you can: arroz con leche, chocolate pie, puff pastries—they´re all here and included in the menu.

Come have a quality meal at a great price inside one of Gran Via´s beautiful historic buildings!

Centro Cultural de los Ejercitos de Madrid
Gran Via, 13
Metro: Gran Via / Banco de España
34 91 522 24 09
Hours: Open all week for lunch from 13:00 p.m. to 16:30 p.m.

By Daniel Sznajderman