This week in Madrid we celebrate the festival of San Isidro, the patron saint of Madrid. The dates of the festival aren’t set in stone but the majority of the activities are concentrated between the 14th and 18th. Since its inception in 1948, the celebration has become enormous encompassing everything from music to theater, but at its core it’s the celebration of this peasant saint. Traditionally it’s a day to take the pilgrimage to the Ermita de San Isidro, an 18th century chapel, to drink of its healing waters. For the occasion, many Madrileños...
by Sean McNamara
The six-hour southbound bus ride passed quickly, as my anticipation for Sevilla’s famous spring Feria (Fair) grew and the monumental silhouettes of Andalusian bulls floated over the hills. Socibus, the company that shuttles travelers...
The Thyssen Bornemisza Museum containing work from Gothic Italian to American Pop Art is just minutes away from the AC Palacio del Retiro Hotel. Don't miss the hotel's Turkish baths! See review for details.
In Madrid, when does spring officially begin? For optimists it’s the budding of delicate leaves, for pessimists it’s the banging of annual construction. For the vast majority, however, spring is the beginning of terrazas (sidewalk cafes)...
Calle Argumosa is lined with terrazas cafes serving juice, coffee, beer, wine and sangria. A couple of hours on this magical street will cure whatever ails you.
If jostling through the crowds on Gran Via has lost its charm and you are feeling a bit on edge, before you do something drastic, take a “time out”. Just behind this tourist trodden avenue is a little secret, Plaza Luna, a square that has...
Museums in Madrid are some of the best in the world. Whether you want to check out Spanish classics at El Prado Museum, contemporary art at the Reina Sofía Museum, or a bit of both worlds at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, our comprehensive guide to museums in Madrid will give you an informative overview.
Just minutes away from the Westin Palace Hotel is the world-famous Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza featuring works by all the European masters. Don't miss Dali's beautifully intriguing and lengthily titled, "Dream Caused by the Flight of a Bee around a Pomegranate Minutes before Waking." Whether Salvador woke on the "right" or "wrong" side of the bed that particular morning is still disputed; however, all can agree it was definitely the "surreal" side.
Artists in Plaza Mayor capture Spanish life on canvass. Photo by Kike - also see his websites 1 & 2.
March was a busy month full of tapas bars, restaurants and flamenco.
For a peek into the real flamenco scene, see our feature, Flamenco 101- A Lesson in Life . For suggestions on where to catch a bit of flamenco action, see our flamenco page.
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by Andre Nakazawa
Although it is known for its hardy paella and milky tiger-nut drink, horchata, once a year, for five crazy nights, pyromaniacs and fiesta-lovers from all over the world descend on the...
One of the many large-scale "ninots" (puppets) created to be destroyed by fire in Valencia's "Las Fallas" celebration. See story for details.
Within the next six months at least 58 people will be assassinated in a massive Lavapiés murder mystery game . You can join the mayhem by being a victim, a witness or even a suspect...
by Andre Nakazawa
For a city most well-known for its historical university, Salamanca offers surprisingly more than parchment and scholarship. From breath-taking plazas to renaissance architecture and bumpin’ discos, this city offers something for everyone...
Salamanca is a city that boasts a world-famous 13th-century university, Cathedrals, and Roman architecture - not to mention huge tapas and great discos. How can you resist? See review. Photo by Andre Nakazawa.
Most make it look effortless, but shouldering the weight of Semana Santa isn't easy. Photo by Kike.
Ordinarily the hallowed statues of Semana Santa are the centerpiece of the city; however, this year due to rain they have been more inhibited than exhibited. Wrapped in plastic, they've been shown, but in a much less grandiose manner. Better luck next year.
Photo by Jacobo de Castro. For more Madrid photos and writing by Jacobo see his blogs
1, 2, and
3.
Nicole Pearson, originally from Anchorage, Alaska, rehearses flamenco at Amor de Dios. Photo by Quico Lopez.
by Sydney Kunz-McCarthy
Naked people, crying people, minotaurs, guitars, his women and himself: the 400+ piece Picasso exhibit at the Reina Sofia gives a fascinating perspective of the artist as he saw himself. The works...
If anything can reignite the sheer terror of Biblical events, it’s Easter in Spain. Between Palm and Easter Sundays...
When "Video killed the radio star" this wasn’t the first instance of carnage in the world of art. New mediums and technologies always...
by Andre Nakazawa
Knights in shining armor, the King on his throne and sentinels patrolling their watchtowers. Everything you assumed was mere childhood fantasy materializes in the 15th century Castillo de Manzanares el Real.
Beautifully preserved, the castle lies a stone’s...
Less than an hour away from Madrid, this 15th century castle is a great day-trip for those with little time or money to spare. See Andre Nakazawa's review on Castillo de Manzanares el Real.
By Andre Nakazawa
Any recent stroll down the Paseo de Prado has surely been interrupted by the sight...
Basilico's photograhpic exhibit covers architecture from around the world. See article
If you are horrified by a single bull being slaughtered with heartless bravado, get ready to multiply your horrification: that same bull can now be killed ad infinitum thanks to the miracle of cloning...
Should we clone exceptional bulls so that they can fight to the death more than once? See article for details.
Today and tomorrow Chamartin station will be converted into yet another of Madrid's fashion arenas. See story for more details.
The Question is the same every year: Is art Dead? Wandering through the multi-national maze of kiosks at ARCO, Madrid's largest art fair, the answer didn’t look optimistic. Shortly after...
Even though we´re an English language magazine–hey, we´re in Spain! And as everyone here at MAP speaks Spanish (some better than others...), we thought we´d give a shout out to our beloved 'other tongue." So, a big round...
Every February and Sept. Madrid is en vogue. It’s an exhilarating time in Spanish fashion as Madrid hosts a series of high profile fashion events. The two biggest events are The Pasarela Cibeles...
According to Así es Madrid…en el cine, an exhibition of Madrid in film, around 300 films have been shot in Madrid so far. Not as impressive as New York, London or Paris, they say...
Spain is known for its laid-back atmosphere; ironically, this tranquility is...
A dying art? As seen throughout the city a certain generation of men are still plying there trade as... cycle sharpeners? On bicycles equipped with sharpening wheels, they arrive and set up shop for the afternoon.
Photo by Jacobo de Castro. For more Madrid photos and writing by Jacobo see his blogs 1, 2, and 3.
Neither the morning darkness nor the rain could hold me back. Early the day after the celebration of the Three Kings, just like every woman in the country: I woke up early, renounced my stilettos, and rushed off to war - the first day of rebajas (the sale season). The battlefield: the mall. The ammunition: Cash and cards. The goal: to procure all things bright and beautiful. If you think that rebajas are but...
Have you ever been to Rome or The Vatican and had the irrational urge to start buying up sculpture and take it home? The Bronze Lion? “I’ll take it.” The Cabeza de Apolo? “Give me two.” The Cabeza de Safo? “Yes, I’ll buy two of these as well.” Well, Diego...
Most of us, if asked to visualize flamenco, would probably conjure up the images sold to us in every tchotchke-hawking tourist trap around Puerta del Sol: castanets, brightly colored dresses, fans and shawls, images of men with guitars or the quintessential form of the foot-stamping, hand...
More than twelve rooms of flamenco art cover the visual legacy of flamenco at the Reina Sofia. See the review.
At its height, the Roman Empire stretched from Great Britain to the north of Africa and from Syria to Spain. Trajan, a Spaniard, even ruled the Empire briefly. In addition to the infamous gladiator...
Fixated on the flashing image of the red man, I sprinted into the intersection. Still blurry-eyed in the gray January dawn, I asked myself if the post-holiday re-entry into work would be as painful as it seemed. The cars revved with anticipation; the drivers stared at me lifelessly. In seeming response to my question...
Welcome back! Madrid’s international population dipped a bit during December as everyone flew here or there to do this or that. We truly hope your livers and your bank accounts survived the season. Ours did - more or less. Come on, what’s a bit of sclerosis and debt, it’s the f%&king holidays! Anyway, the elves at MAP were busy the whole while happily writing away. Here is a quick update. Spanish current events were...
Mapplethorpe has hit Madrid. Although your immediate reaction might be “been there, done that” assuming you don’t need to see any more of this all-too-familiar work. That, ironically, may be just the reason to go. The photos, no longer caught in the crosshairs of controversy, can’t rely on shock value...
We at MAP Magazine have been busy gearing up for 2008. Look forward to greatly expanded variety in articles and video. We are proud to have added numerous writers to our already ample team. By increasing the number of bilingual journalists as well as others with distinct areas of specialization, we are increasing our scope and offering more in-depth coverage. In addition to...
So you’ve celebrated New Year’s Eve, but have you ever celebrated New Year’s Eve Eve? Here’s the situation: by now everyone knows about the big bash going down on the 31st in Puerta del Sol. Perhaps everyone who lives in Madrid should experience this once: bone-crushing crowds, bottles flying threw the air...
Stepping off the bus in Barcelona we had the hunched posture of knuckle dragging Neanderthals – a consequence of “sleeping” in fetal position on the night bus. Not an ideal start to a trip; however, a teacher’s salary doesn’t afford one the luxury of flying. Sticking with the travelers' motto: “No bad experiences, just good anecdotes”, we soldier, or rather lumbered, on...
If the beautiful lights and abstract Christmas trees around Madrid haven’t inspired enough holiday cheer, consider a trip to the Centro Cultural de la Villa de Madrid for this week’s Festival of Gospel & Negro Spirituals. The Festival, in its 13th year, is being sponsored by Caja Madrid and represents a collaborative effort between the cultural center, Obra Social, and the Madrid...
No doubt about it, Spain is getting pricey. According to Que!, a local newspaper in Madrid, since the change from pesetas to euros the cost of daily items has increased significantly–most notably the price of bread, which has shot up 100% in cost. Of course, nothing hits the pocket harder than the holiday season; but above stuffing stockings...
If laughter is the cure for all ailments, then an evening with Tricicle will certainly send you home alleviated and restored to perfect health. Having been in the business of making people laugh for almost...
Modern graffiti tags drip across a sprawling seven-foot copy of Diego Velazquez's 'La Venus de Espejo' at the Gran Via Station. The begrimed goddess advertises the exhibition 'Fabulas de Valazquez' at Museo del Prado until February 24th. Photo by Molly Norris
I entered the vestibule of the club a little after 1 AM wondering if it was, in fact, the much lauded flamenco club, Clan. Unconvinced, I quickly scanned for clues. I saw a medium sized bar with a chatty group warming the alcove. Stepping through the next set...
So maybe classic art isn’t your thing. Perhaps portraits of anemic royalty and painstakingly rendered platters of fruit don’t “speak” to you – fair enough. If you are looking for something a bit more “now”, swing by the Circulo de Bellas Artes between now and the 13th of January, 2008. Displayed in the Sala Picasso are the winners of the Creación Injuve 2007, the award for young artists. Young, in this case, refers to the under 30 set. Divided into three categories - visual arts, comics and illustration, and design – the show hosts 50 artists. Within these categories...
Photographer and “collaborative art project organiser” extraordinaire, Julien Charlon, is at it again! After the publication of his successful book of photography last year, Mundolavapiés, he is fiendishly organising an...
In a very scrooge-like way, I hate New Year’s Eve - always have. No other night puts more pressure on having a robust social life than Nochevieja as it’s known here in Spanish. You scramble to make the biggest, best plans, mostly just to have a confident answer when asked, “Hey, what...
Marjane Satrapi is a young girl with modest desires: one day she dreams of being able to wax her legs and… being a prophet. During early childhood, the Shah still rules her home country, Iran. When he finally resigns after mass demonstrations and an Islamic revolution...
Today's movie review - Persepolis. See what France is taking to the Oscars.
Every MAP reader who has been living in Madrid for more than a year and has therefore lived to see the traditional Christmas market in Plaza Mayor will agree that it is, by far, the most bizarre...
For the average person, the name El Greco might churn up some very vague associations, “Hey, isn’t he a famous dead guy?” Those of you a bit more in the know might further expand upon this previous revelation with, “Ya, the guy who had a thing for morbidly gaunt models?...”
Saying kids can learn history by playing “Shadows of War”, a Spanish Civil War video game, may seem about as valid as saying they can learn geometry through skateboarding, but this is part of the current controversy caused by Paco Pérez, the games creator.
Yes, you can order a coffee; yes, you can do small talk; and yes, you can get your basic political views across, but what about wisecracks, puns and general joking around. For many, humor is the one of the biggest hurdles in adapting to life abroad. Another common...
Christmas in Madrid means many things to many people, for some, it’s tons of LED-lights in the streets accompanied by conversations about carbon footprints and tourist attractions. For others, it’s signified by a particular Friday evening on which every company seems to organise...
Due to his soup-can choice of subject matter and bizarre persona, the perennial question with Warhol is “Was he taking the piss?” It is, after all, a valid question for a man who actually urinated on an entire series of canvasses to achieve certain color effects...
How we see the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) today is greatly influenced by a suitcase, a Leica and 36 years of patience. Centro Cultural Conde Duque has organised an exhibit on Agustí Centelles, photographer of cabarets, nightlife and ad campaigns...
Driving throughout the Spanish countryside, one cannot ignore the gigantic bull silhouettes boasting from hilltops and plains. Weighing over four thousand kilos each and with a height of nearly fourteen meters (equivalent to a four-story building), ninety Osborne bulls stand frozen in time, carefully placed to be easily...
“Irony” was the unofficial theme of the evening at the Mad is Mad's Autumn Collective Show. Upon entering one was greeted by a series of Disney drawings gone pornographic: elaborate recreations of these world-famous characters – their heads all replaced with giant phalluses (by Jorge Gonzalez). This set the tone and, interestingly enough...
A very wise man once said, “Never underestimate the restorative powers of jazz and cocktails”. OK, maybe no one has ever uttered exactly those words in exactly that order, but the point is - they should have. If you don’t know what I am talking about, get yourself to the The XXIV Festival de Jazz de Madrid. With over 14 clubs and countless performers participating, there is no reason to miss out. This year the festival is dedicated to the memory of...
Those who have had the pleasure of traveling in Japan already know how quirky, profound and inescapably elegant the Japanese aesthetic can be. A Sunday walk through Yoyogi Koen (the “Central Park” of Tokyo) can bring you face to face with marvelous fusions like punk rock geisha – a look so harmoniously constructed your jaw will literally drop. OK, so bopping over to Japan isn’t an immediate option for most...
As the weather turns cold, it’s always good to have film weekend. This weekend there is no shortage of festivals and flicks. Madrid (and neighboring Alcalá de Henares) offers a full spectrum of possibilities. For those interested in the Spanish scene, there is El Festival de Cine de Alcalá (Alcalá Film Festival). Focusing on short films by young directors, this event offers a smorgasbord...
Once upon a time, there was a quaint little town by the name of Segovia, found deceptively close to the metropolitan city of Madrid. Perfectly preserved in its medieval splendor, the city of Segovia exemplifies the more traditional side of Spain. El Casco Antiguo of the city is where a majority of the historical sites are located, all of which can be found within walking distance of one another. This scenic walk begins at the ancient Roman...
I saw that the Círculo de Bellas Artes was putting on an exhibit called Leading Moments: Photography in the 20th Century and I thought: "All of the 20th century?" An ambitious goal to be sure, but an...
For those of you who are of the ‘Maybe I should take up
Though sickness and relative ineptitude are common pleas, lack of money is one of the finest justifications for a lack of cultural exploration. Unfortunately for you...
Isabel Muñoz is one of the most important and exciting figures in Spanish photography today. She is renowned for using one of the most difficult photo developing techniques, platinotype, using platinum paper to produce superior quality B&W photographs. Her work is a treat for the...
Yes, the floor is dirty; yes, it’s not comfortable to sit in for hours having a coffee; yes, it’s always full of old men and the occasional roadside bum – but it has the best tapas I have eaten in my 15 months...
The English Speaking Community in Madrid, despite its transience, has a few long-term institutions of its own...
Between the end of the 19th century and the middle of the 20th, Madrid’s favorite pastime - talking, talking, talking - was taken even more seriously than usual. Part of a proper bohemian life was engaging in tertulias, informal gatherings to chat about, of course, everything counter-cultural. The newly developed tradition of sitting down at a marble table...
Bullfighting is one of the most commented on and least understood phenomena that Spain has ever exported. And, no, we are not going to follow that first sentence up with a sober, historical explanation marveling at its raw animal power and nuanced technical splendor. We are still... struggling with a profound understanding of this sport. Stay tuned as we explore this and other aspects of Spanish culture.
Perhaps this isn’t a film for everyone. However, for anyone who has ever tackled any major project - anything from starting a business to organizing a rave, elements of this documentary will likely ring true. Shot in Spain, “Lost in La Mancha” is definitely a film about a film, but, it isn’t a “making of” sort of documentary - to the contrary, it has been dubbed the first “un-making of a film” in history. You see, it charts the downward spiral of this 30-million-dollar project and ends with everyone from Johnny Depp to Jean Rochefort going home dispirited and...
Head on down to the Parque de La Reina in Lavapiés tonight and tomorrow night to check out the "Noches De Ramadan (Ramadan Nights), celebrating the end of the Muslim holy festival of Ramadan with free concerts, tea, and sweets...
Photo by Justin Metz.
Not just the stuff of mythology, windmills do dot the Spanish landscape. Whether they be the gleamingly white, electicity-generating, modern windmills or these squat and sturdy traditional types, they are waiting to be seen just outside Madrid.
Nicely tucked away from the busiest streets in La Latina lies N. del T., a quiet and relaxed get-away from the neighborhood’s castizos. Good coffee (with a chocolate, hurray!), homemade cakes or a nice caipirísima will recharge your batteries and enable you to deal with any further exploration of this bustling part of Madrid. Somehow, N. Del T. just oozes tranquility and calmness. Is it the brick walls that are painted white? Perhaps the alternative, scarce furniture gives...
Photo by Lindsey Rose Inman
You having a tough week, too? Whether it is your job, your partner, your finances, your roommate or all four – don’t worry. We have a three day weekend coming up and that can make all the difference. Friday is La Fiesta Nacional de España o Día de la Hispanidad. This is primarily a celebration of nationhood coinciding with the “discovery of America by Columbus” – a phrase carefully contained in quotes since those events are still hotly debated. Anyway, it will be a great opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of the city or conversely indulge even more fully marcha and merriment which is Madrid. We’ll keep you posted on special events.
Photo by Lindsey Rose Inman
In response to the perennial question of how to encourage people to abandon their emission-spewing autos, we at MAP Magazine pose the question: Would live pole dancing encourage you to take the metro more frequently? To linger a little longer? Facilitate social interactions with your fellow passengers? We’ve unofficially launched an inquiry into the possibility of adding a little eros to your drab daily commute. Stay tuned in the coming weeks as we explore these and other forward-thinking solutions such as complimentary lap dances in taxis and, of course, tantric massage on the city’s trains.
In conjunction with the “Fémina ‘07” festival, tonight there’s “Rimas Contra La Violencia de Genero" (Rap Against Domestic Violence) at Sala Caracol. All proceeds will go to the Funcación Mujeres. In the past, “Fémina” has showcased women performers of every region and genre imaginable including big names like Kodama, Venexxa, and Sara Da Pin Up...
In Spain, a country the size of Texas, many wonder how so many linguistic and political divisions could possibly exit: Basque, Catalan, Galician, etc. Furthermore, given that they do exist, one often asks “Isn’t a solution on the horizon?” Well, perhaps...
Here is a shot from Noche en Blanco – the night that the city shone even more brightly than usual. Featured here is the old post office which has since been converted. The building has frequently been mocked for being excessive – often being compared to an ostentatious wedding cake. On the excessive night of Noche en Blanco, however, she finally fits in.
Think you are fashionable? Have you checked out Moda Tours? If you are a sucker for off-beat clothes not sold by the commercial franchises, a peek into Moda Tours 2007 will give you directions to explore plenty of alternative and unconventional stores in the Malasaña barrio...
Arabic directors have made a strong showing at the internationally acclaimed San Sebastian Film Festival here in the north of Spain. Two excellent films are being presented with the Cinema in Motion Award...
The Rastro, Madrid’s largest outdoor market can only be described as “a universe unto itself”. With origins that stretch back nearly five centuries, one can only imagine the plentitude of traditions surrounding this massive Sunday event...
We aren't even done with September but that’s all the more reason to start planning what you will be doing on New Year’s Eve. There’s still enough time to laces up your running shoes and start training for one of Madrid’s most popular runs...
Here is reason 5,212 to fear the Starbuck’s revolution – beautifully authentic and genuinely historic cafes like this one could easily be driven to extinction. La Teteria de tu Abuela, started in the 1950s...